Barras de Piaxtla and Petroglyphs

Saturday, February 19th we packed up the van, Ollie jumped in, and we picked up our friends. We then headed up the Autopista, the toll road, to Barras de Piaxtla for a short change of pace vacation. The approach to Piaxtla is unusual as the exit is not marked. At the 59 kilometer mark you drive under an overpass, exit the highway and find a narrow dirt path. You follow this one lane path until you hit the road that takes you back over the Autopista and towards Piaxtla. The house we were going to is about 7 kilometers, 4 1/2 miles. The road is narrow, dusty, and marked with major potholes, rocks, etc. We averaged about 15 MPH driving this road. Along the roadside were thickets, cactus, hawks and vultures perched watching us and probably hoping that we would break down.

We finally arrived at Piaxtla. The first thing you see is their Little League baseball field. There is no grass and is very rocky, but is used often. Once inside the village we turned uphill to the house where would would stay until Tuesday. A woman from next door had the keys and turned on the propane so we could cook. The house is comfortable with two bedrooms and a patio that overlooks the beach and bay. There is a long, flat beach that ends at a working lighthouse. On the beach are fishing boats, most in need of paint jobs. These are working boats. Piaxtla is primarily a fishing village with approximately 450 residents. When we walked in the village we saw fisherman unloading their catch in large milk crates. Piaxtla is on a peninsula with sand beaches on both sides. The streets are dirt and the homes small and basic. There were a lot of kids around. Our friend always carries candy in his backpack and passed out a lot to the kids. Although you could tell that most lived at a subsistence level the kids looked healthy, happy, and well cared for. At least twice they called out, "there is Santa Claus". For some reason in Mazatlan and now in Piaxtla, Mexican children seem to think I look like Santa with my bushy, white beard.

Our days just seemed to pass. My firend and I took the fishing poles out every morning, but we seemed to leave the fish for those that needed to make a living from them. The two ladies spent a lot of time with their water colors trying to capture the ambience of Piaxtla.

There was a small cafe named La Jardin that was owned by a gringo surfer named Danny. He had arrived in Piaxtla ten years ago, married a local girl, and has had several businesses. We stopped there for some powerful Margaritas, but never ate there. We ate only one meal out at El Mirador which was next door to our house and had a huge deck overlooking the bay with views to die for. We were the only customers and had a three hour lunch. We also saw an interesting Bed and Breakfast, Cabanas de la Rosa, owned and operated by a woman originally from Bellingham, Washington. The B & B is a work of art. She has made all the furniture, done all the inlay work, and built the casitas. If you wish to stay on the beach and feel like you are in Mexico I would recommend this place. http://www.larosadelasbarras.com/

Among the sights were arches carved by the water through rock. When walking Ollie on the beach we kept a close eye on him as the vultures and Cooper Hawks seemed to lick their beaks when flying overhead. On our last day we returned to the Autopista and drove back to the 50 kilometer marker to exit the highway to view the Petroglyphs. These are carvings in the rocks dating back to around 1000 A.D. The rocks were strewn all over a beach. Janice took around 100 different pictures of all the petroglyphs but following are a few we saw of the markings. Some had heads that looked like space aliens and others were familiar designs that you now see on handicrafts. They all have a place in an ancient religion. In March at the Spring Solstice they have ceremonies by the descendants of the carvers. 

We enjoyed a time of relaxation without TV, phone, or internet. The only issue was there was no hot water where we stayed, so sponge baths or cold showers were necessary. After driving home and dropping our friends off, we showered and I took a dip in the pool. Mazatlan is home and I have a feeling that we would get restless if we stayed a long time, but this was a welcome slowdown from our busy lives.

Life Speeds By

As we are now settled in Mazatlan as our home, the blogs get further apart. We seem to have such a full calendar of activities that time seems to just pass quickly. It seems like we just arrived, but it was over four months ago. In only two and a half months we have to leave again for the north and then on to Spain and Ireland. Although I am looking forward to spending a month in each country, I am looking forward to our return to Mazatlan in mid-September.

We are becoming very fond of not only the Mexican people and culture, but also enjoy the quirkiness of the expatriate community. Our Mexican hosts have a wonderful, varied way of looking and the world. Sometimes they do things that are incomprehensible to we northerners who tend to think linear. The other day I was waiting for a bus when I saw a Taxi double parked in the right lane of traffic. The taxi looked empty. When I got closer I saw that the driver's seat was down and the driver was taking a nap. Cars in the lane just swerved to the left lane and passed. None of the passing drivers were particularly upset and obviously the taxi driver was not worried about someone crashing into him. This was not the first time I observed this happening. Also, almost daily I hear of a kindness that has been done to an expatriate or a tourist by a local citizen. One friend has Mexican neighbors that have befriended him and take him fishing with them although they speak little English and he is still learning Spanish. I have had Mexican neighbors stop on the street and give me rides as I wait for my bus. Sometimes I know they went out of their way to pick me up. Our landlord kindly lets us use his home in a small fishing village north of here to take a relaxing weekend out of the hustle and bustle of the city. He does not charge us for this. On a previous blog I related how our Mexican groundskeeper yanked the battery out of his truck and put it in a friend's car so he could start it and drive to Wal-Mart for a new battery. The reason I list these incidents, which are just the tip of the iceberg is that so many people take the "exception reporting" of the north of the border media as representative of what is happening in Mexico. Good news doesn't sell papers.

The expatriate community is also interesting. The bulk of the year round expatriate community is from the US with a strong representation of Canadians. Canadians outnumber people from the US in the snowbird category, people that spend two to six months in the winter. Canadians need to spend at least six months a year in Canada or their medical benefits are suspended. Canada takes good care of their population medically, so those benefits would be painful to lose. Where we live in an enclave of mostly snowbirds and as such are mostly normal middle and professional class Canadians and Americans. The area is secure, the landscaping and pool are well maintained. I enjoy living here due to feeling Janice and Ollie are secure at night and there are always helpful neighbors in case of emergency. Many of our Centro friends enjoy visiting us here, but would never live here. That said, the Centro Historico area is a more interesting place. The architecture is more traditional and many buildings are being refurbished in a manner that doesn't change their Mexican flavor. Also, this area is where the more diverse, interesting people live. As a result I jump on busses almost daily to activities in Centro. Working at the library is a special treat as I get to talk to such a varied group of people. There is everything from people living on next to nothing to millionaires. There are people all over the map politically and philosophically. This is especially attractive as you learn so much more when meeting people who have a different slant on life and political issues than you do. It helps keep from getting narrow minded in our old age. The dress is also varied. There are those that dress in country club chic to 60's tie-dye. The bulk just dresses casual with shorts, tee-shirts or other causal tops, sandals, etc. There are a lot of men with gray ponytails and not much on top. The variety of beards and hair styles cross all varieties. I have met people that are retired CEO's of major companies and people that have just worked marginally and are living marginally. From appearances, often you can't tell them apart. There are people that live in large and small boats in the Marina. Outside of the country club types, it is hard to tell one's economic status and most people just don't care. Centro suffers frequent water shortages and a variety of small inconveniences.

Janice also enjoys Centro and the activities with friends there. Tomorrow night we will go to El Shrimp Bucket" in Centro for a Mardi Gras Jazz concert and celebration with friends. A week after we will go for a night at the Opera at the Angela Peratla Theatre on the Plazuela Machado in Centro. Centro is where you go for culture. The expatriate community tries to give back to the community. We attended four benefits for different cause in four weekends. There are others we have had to pass up. While there are a few "Ugly Americans/Canadians" here the vast majority strive to fit in with and interact with our Mexican neighbors and accept their culture rather than trying to prove superiority.

So much for pontificating. I hope that our readers get a better feel for Mazatlan and will come to see for yourselves. Many that come return often. Next month I will describe our four day power loafing and fishing expedition to Barras de Piaxtla, a village of 450 people about 40 miles up the coast. Also I will bring you up to date on the new volunteer tour aid program those of us that live in Mazatlan have started to help give information to Cruise ship passengers and others staying here as tourists, about security and how to get around in Mazatlan. My brother Steve has already been on Olas Altas assisting visitors. Also, Carnival, Mazatlan's Mardi Gras is from March 1-8, so hopefully I will report on that.

Until our next time, Joel, Janice and Ollie say "La Vida is Buena"